What a Difference a Year Makes

Today, on July 3, 2023, I am going to start writing about a backpacking trip I took at this time last year. It was hot and as dry as could be. This year, my plans for hiking at a lower elevation than this one are thwarted by the abundant remains of the incredible snowfall of last Winter.

Last year, I was asked by my friend Katie to resupply her northbound John Muir Trail trip by bringing her food and gear to a meeting place at Thousand Island Lake, in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. I remember loving this area, when I hiked the JMT a decade ago. So why not visit a place you loved every ten years? I readily agreed to be her mule. When we got together to look at what she wanted me to bring, however, I was really daunted by the weight and volume. So I enlisted my strong young friend Emily to help me, and to spend a few days just hiking around before and after the drop. She was definitely up for it, and I got to spend a few days doing something I love with someone I love. So win-win!

A week before our scheduled meeting, though, I received a message from Katie that she had abandoned the JMT hike, and wouldn’t be needing her resupply. Though I felt sad for her for having to leave the trail, it was literally a huge weight off my shoulders. What follows is my log of that adventure.

We take our first steps up the trail. What adventure lies ahead?
There is something that really gets to me about these weatherbeaten, blasted old trees that just keep growing. I wouldn’t mind being one in my next life…

Emily and I decided to keep our rendezvous with the wilderness, and left Berkeley at 9:00 AM on June 30, 2022. We drove over Sonora Pass and south on Highway 395, stopping in Lee Vining for lunch at Bodie Mike’s before we headed farther south to the Rush Creek trailhead, at Silver Lake. We were on the trail at 4:00 PM. It’s a hard climb up a hot, rocky and exposed trail. My hips are tired, but I’m glad to say that my new pack feels good. I had hemmed and hawed over this purchase for about a year, since my trusty Z Pack was starting to show a lot of wear and tear after ten years of hard use, and I was attracted by the promise of more cushy shoulder straps. Plus, the new white Hyperlight packs look so beautiful. Of course, staying pristine and white in the back country is a little too much to ask of a piece of equipment. I learned to quickly let go of the urge to clean off every scuff mark. One of the things I love about backpacking is that most equipment purchases are a one-time expense. Unless something catastrophic happens.

Luckily, the sun dipped behind the ridge pretty early on in our hike, making the climb more comfortable.
The trail crisscrosses the old railroad track that was built to haul equipment up to the dam sites (Agnew and Gem Lakes). I wish it were still running and could have given me a lift on this first day.
So many wildflowers blooming , the higher we go!
Looking down to Agnew Lake, the first of the dammed lakes we hiked past today.
I remember why I love being up here when I get to the junipers. Every tree deserves a portrait.
Ta-da! We enter the Ansel Adams Wilderness, with Gem Lake below us. Emily still looks fresh as a daisy.
Me, not so much. Looks like I’m happy to have a leaning post.

I don’t think I could have made the climb up to Gem Lake (only 5 miles), carrying the added weight of Katie’s resupply. Well, I suppose it would have been a much slower slog, in any case. Gem Lake, our first-night destination, is a reservoir in a steep canyon. The few flat campsites that had water accessibility were taken already, by early evening, and Emily and I worried that we might not find a campsite that had access to the lake. Finally, though, we did. We set up our tents, made dinner, and I collapsed into my tent at 9:00, ready for sleep. My phone shows that we hiked 5.8 miles, and I feel like it was more like 10. Out of shape! It is a beautiful night, threatening wind. At some point, I heard loud splashing in the lake below us, just out of eyesight. Something big is down there. It’s definitely more interested in splashing and swimming than it is in us. Good night.

Our little campsite above Gem Lake. So happy to be here!

5 thoughts on “What a Difference a Year Makes

  1. 👍

    This subject of our aging bodies is a new experience for me too.

    I like how you reference it, as I do, with a sense of humor.

    <

    div>Maybe Liz and I’ll make an overnighter this summer, just to get th

    Like

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